Thailand

Off the Beaten Track

Chachoengsao

Tucked away in the countryside to the east of Bangkok, this provincial town is hardly visited by foreign tourists, mainly because it's not on the major road or rail networks out of the capital. It's home to one of the most sacred Buddha images in Thailand - Phra Phuttha Sothon - which is housed in the Wat Sothon Wararam Worawihaan. The origins of the modest 198cm (77in) Phra Phuttha Sothon are cloaked in mystery but the image is said to be associated with a famous monk with holy powers who supposedly predicted the exact moment of his death.

Chachoengsao makes a great day-trip destination to escape Bangkok's turbulence and Ayuthaya's tourists and touts, and it's a fine place to experience provincial Thai life. Buses to Chachoengsao leave frequently from Bangkok's eastern terminal; ditto trains from Bangkok's Hualamphong station. It takes 90 minutes to reach Chachoengsao by both modes of transport.

Ko Si Chang

This one-town island offshore from Chonburi Province on the Gulf of Thailand is practically deserted, making it great fun to explore. Its attractions include a meditation centre with hermit caves, decent beaches with good snorkelling, a ruined palace, limestone caves and a Chinese temple perched on a cliff overlooking the sea. Most of the population are fisherfolk, mariners, customs officials or workers in aquaculture projects. Camping is permitted anywhere on the island, but if you don't want to tent it, there are numerous hostels and bungalow-style operations.

To get there, take a bus from Bangkok's eastern bus terminal or from Pattaya to Si Racha, about 105km (65mi) from Bangkok. Boats to Ko Si Chang leave hourly from the pier in Si Racha.

Mae Sot

In northern Tak Province, close to the Burmese border, Mae Sot has a reputation as a frontier town with an outlaw image. It has a thriving black-market trade (guns, narcotics, teak and gems) and is an increasingly important official jade and gem centre. It attracts an interesting mixture of ethnicities - Burmese Muslims, members of the local Karen hill tribes, Chinese and Indian shopkeepers and poppy-clad Thai army rangers. It's a departure point for the fascinating border markets that trade Burmese handicrafts and foodstuffs.

Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung Historical Park

The Khmer temple complex at Phanom Rung in northeastern Thailand is the largest and best restored of all the Khmer monuments in Thailand. The temple was constructed between the 10th and 13th centuries with the bulk of the work done during the reign of King Suriyavarman II (1113 to 1150 AD), which was the apex of Angkor architecture.

The complex is located on an extinct volcano and dominates the surrounding countryside. It has a fine promenade leading to the main gate, numerous galleries and halls, and the only three naga bridges left in Thailand. The craftwork represents the pinnacle of Khmer artistic achievement, and is on a par with the reliefs at Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The best time to visit Phanom Rung is before 10am, when it is still cool, the light is good for photography and the site has few visitors.

Phanom Rung is not an easy place to reach, but it is well worth the effort. Trains and buses leave Bangkok for Khorat (also known as Nakhon Ratchasima) and take between four and five hours. From Khorat you need to catch a Surin-bound bus and get off at Ban Ta-Ko. Wait here for a songthaew to the complex.

Thaleh Ban National Park

This 101-sq-km park on the Thai-Malaysian border in southern Satun Province is home to one of South-East Asia's best preserved sections of white meranti rainforest. Its hilly terrain includes caves, waterfalls, limestone cliffs and lake views, plus wildlife such as mouse deer, gibbons, macaques and many rare bird species. Once inside the park, you can camp or bunk at one of the longhouses situated on the shores of a large lake.

The nearest large town is Satun, a 15-hour bus trip from Bangkok. Share taxis run from Satun about 40km (25mi) away to Wang Prajan near the park entrance. From here you need to hitch or hop on one of the infrequent songthaews into the park. Road access is also possible from Malaysia.

Facts for the Traveler

Visas: Most visitors can stay for 30 days without a visa.

Getting Around

Trains are comfortable, frequent, punctual, moderately priced and rather slow. Sleeping berths are a bargain and a wonderfully comfortable way to traverse the countryside.

Buses are phenomenally (read hair-raisingly) fast, and they're also well serviced and air-conditioned. Beware of booking private buses from agencies on Thanon Khao San; the service on such buses can be unbelievably bad. A unique feature of Thai public transport is the women-only buses that revved up in June 2000 - an attempt by the government to protect female passengers from crime and sexual harrasment.

Local transport includes taxis, tuk-tuks (motorised rickshaws), samlors (bicycle rickshaws) and songthaews (small pick-ups). Taxis are (mostly) metered in Bangkok and songthaews tend to run regular routes, but samlors, tuk-tuks and taxis outside Bangkok require bargaining and agreement on a fare before departure

Cars, jeeps or vans can be rented in Bangkok and large provincial capitals. Thais drive on the left-hand side of the road - most of the time.

Motorcycles can be rented in major towns and tourist centres. Always check the condition of the bike thoroughly before you take off, and remember that the Thais are notorious scoff-laws when it comes to road rules.